When a Restaurant Is a Work of Art

STOCKHOLM — “Can somebody dim the Dan Flavin?” It’s not a request one generally hears at a restaurant, but on the inaugural preview night at Brutalisten, the artist Carsten Höller was pulling cords from their sockets at random, still working out a few kinks at his restaurant, including toning down the glaring fluorescent tubes of…

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This Crispy Fish Is Irresistible

There are some types of dishes you find the world over. They have different names on their passports and come in diverging styles, but they share delicious fundamentals. The breaded cutlet — known aliases include katsu, schnitzel and Milanesa — is one of them, and a favorite of mine. So I was in heaven when I…

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