‘This Isn’t the Time for Caviar’: A Chef Finds New Flavors in a Pandemic
BANGKOK — When the coronavirus struck, desperate chefs in Bangkok’s fine-dining scene began offering sea urchin on toast and Wagyu katsu sandwiches for delivery since eating in was banned. Deepanker Khosla kept cooking, too, but he has eschewed the foams, emulsions and other flourishes of molecular gastronomy that normally flavor his cuisine. Instead, his kitchen,…
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