36 Hours in Zermatt

“Nature is built on a stupendous plan in that region,” Mark Twain once wrote of the valley leading into Zermatt. “There is nothing tame, or cheap, or trivial — it is all magnificent.” Much of today’s Zermatt would still be familiar to Twain. The high, stony pyramid of the Matterhorn — “lonely, conspicuous, and superb,”…

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My Quest for Pure Water

I live with my family in an almost 200-year-old house on the coast of Maine. Down a steep, wooded bank behind our house is an Audubon sanctuary and two vulnerable ecosystems: a saltwater marsh surrounding a tidal salt river, and a freshwater stream that travels through trees, over big granite rocks and finally through muddy…

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