Hungry City: At Puerta del Sol, Beef and Potatoes Take Cues From Bolivia
Beef heart is a mighty muscle, built to power nearly a ton’s worth of animal. But at Puerta del Sol in Woodside, Queens, it’s all melt, coaxed by smoke and repeatedly brushed with olive oil and its own slow juices on the grill. As in the high, thin-aired Andean city of La Paz, Bolivia, where…
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