The Simplest Noodles

Hello! And welcome to Five Weeknight Dishes. I’ve always been the kind of person who likes to cook when things feel out of control. My mom died when I was quite young, and the kitchen was her place, so when she died, it became my place, where I escaped to — and still do, to…

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The Most Comforting Dish of All

LONDON — My father passed away last December. In his final months, he wasn’t the dad I’d known — always terrifically absorbed in anything that came up in conversation. Regardless of whom he was talking to, he would find something genuinely engrossing, an opportunity to learn a fact or communicate one. He also lost his…

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The Poundcake of Your Dreams

For a cook in the 18th century, the recipe for poundcake was obvious from its name: a pound each of butter, eggs, sugar and flour, beaten together and baked until done. Golden-topped, rich and flavored with a splash of rosewater or dash of mace, it was the tight-crumbed grandparent of every butter cake we bake…

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