There’s Something About Miso

Years ago, at a New York restaurant called Nishi, I tried a cheeky, cheeseless version of cacio e pepe made with chickpea miso. I was skeptical, but the hot, slippery noodles were so satisfying, so full of salty dimension and depth, so absurdly delicious, that I didn’t miss the cheese at all. There’s both nuance…

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