Peruvian, Fortifying and Frank, at Warique in Queens
In Peru, a warique is a humble, steadfastly unsleek restaurant, where you might eat crouched on a plastic chair at a shared table, without formality or comfort, and be glad. Warique, in Jackson Heights, Queens, is more handsome and polished, with mirrors in sunburst frames and a long banquette amenable to lingering. But to Jimmy…
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