Moo Shu, Now With Less Meat

Moo shu pork is a Northern Chinese dish from Shandong, popularized in the United States in the mid-20th century. My parents were introduced to it at Joyce Chen’s restaurant in Cambridge, Mass., where it had been served since 1958, alongside now-ubiquitous dishes like Peking duck, pan-fried dumplings (which she called “Peking ravioli” — a term…

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