L’Express, the Beloved Montreal Bistro Where So Much Began
MONTREAL — David McMillan, one of Montreal’s most influential chefs, estimates he has eaten at L’Express, the city’s premier French bistro, more than 500 times. His meal is almost always the same: pistachio-studded chicken liver pâté, followed by veal kidneys in mustard sauce. “I still have this feeling of elation, like it’s Christmas, when I…