At a Russian Palace, a Storybook Beginning

In August 2018, Svetlana Dotsenko and Fabián Alejandro Poliak were visiting the Peterhof palace complex in St. Petersburg, Russia, when Mr. Poliak decided to make a move. “I’m not leaving these grounds without trying for a kiss,” Mr. Poliak recalled thinking to himself. A short while later, they were running through the palace gardens in…

The Phone That Tore Us Apart

What tore us apart was displayed on a table in the courtroom — a phone. As the judge stated for the record, I was appearing for my divorce “telephonically.” This was 17 years ago, pre-Zoom. From my home in Oakland, Calif., 2,000 miles from the Midwestern courtroom where my husband sat, I pressed the receiver…

Where to Eat and Drink in Milan Right Now

Late last December, Milan entered an unofficial state of mourning when the beloved Brera-neighborhood restaurant La Latteria — known for its spicy lemon pasta and strict no-reservations policy — closed after 58 years of service. But despite this loss, the city’s food scene has never been more vibrant. The last six months have seen a…