The Perfect Moment for Vegan Tacos

LOS ANGELES — On a recent Saturday morning, the chef and writer Jocelyn Ramirez faced the camera on her laptop, dug her hands into a bowl of pale, unripe jackfruit, and pulled it apart with her fingers for a rapt audience on Zoom. “It’s a foundation. It’s a blank canvas,” Ms. Ramirez said. Her business,…