What to Cook: What to Cook in an Air Fryer

Good morning. It’s gadget week here at NYT Cooking as Melissa Clark weighs in, not super-favorably, on the uses and merits of countertop air fryers. (Me, I’ve got a no-recipe recipe for split-pea soup cooked in an electric pressure cooker.) Melissa went down the air fryer rabbit hole a few months ago, acquiring one after…