Think of Kimchi as a Verb

In 1904, the Japanese military authorities arrested the American novelist Jack London. Three times. He was covering the Russo-Japanese War for the San Francisco Examiner as a war correspondent in Korea, and drew from his time overseas in a 1915 novel, “The Star Rover.” “I know kimchi,” London writes, speaking through his characters. “Kimchi is…

Verdicchio di Matelica, to Discover or Revisit

As some of you might have noticed, I’ve been on an Italian white wine kick. I’ve been particularly interested in wines made from the verdicchio grape. “Verdicchio is arguably Italy’s greatest native white grape variety,” Ian D’Agata wrote in his authoritative book “Native Wine Grapes of Italy.” “That statement may come as a surprise to…

How Do You Define Rosé?

Certain categories of wine must be approached on tiptoe, as opinions surrounding them will be tenaciously defended, even if their champions are ill-informed. Arguments will ensue. Riesling is like that, for sure, and natural wine, without a doubt. But rosé? Rosé is a popular, beloved sort of wine, I imagined, that all would embrace. It’s…