Bulgogi, Any Way You Slice It
In a spiral-bound police community cookbook from the 1970s, Songza Park’s recipe for “BUL KOGI (Barbecued Beef)” calls for two pounds of sirloin steak that you have to slice “very thin on the bias” before scoring each piece with an X. In 1965, when Ms. Park immigrated to the United States from Korea, she had…