Go Fish (and Tofu and Beans and Grains)

Maybe you’d like to eat more tofu this year? (It is, after all, good for you.) Yewande Komolafe’s glazed tofu with chile and star anise makes that easy. As Yewande notes, Sichuan hui guo rou, or twice-cooked pork, inspired the technique used here: The tofu blocks are first seared whole, then torn into bite-size pieces…

A Japanese Holiday Feast, By Way of California

The chef Sylvan Mishima Brackett’s San Francisco izakaya, Rintaro, will turn 10 next year, and in a city crowded with good places to eat, and a state with access to spectacular ingredients year-round, it still stands out. The restaurant’s courtyard, hidden from the street behind a nondescript door, is filled with fragrant fruit trees (including…

Send In the Beans

A couple of weeks ago, I was having drinks with some friends when one of them uttered an absolutely baffling phrase: “beans alla gin with oat milk.” I laughed so hard I was moved to tears. What, pray tell, were beans alla gin with oat milk? Ever the resourceful cook, my friend Madison had recently…