As with pilsner, craft brewers take liberties with the style. I’ve seen raspberry Kölsch, honey Kölsch, kiwi Kölsch, but though I know many American brewers make true Kölsch-style beers, I don’t often see them. It may be that some American brewers refrain from using the name Kölsch, respecting it as a geographical appellation, which makes…
My rice cooker was cheaply made and cheaply bought, a squat device of rounded plastic and metal. I chose mine from the selection at H Mart because it had only two settings — cook and warm — and pastel flowers stamped across its curve. I found this flourish charming: My rice cooker tries. I try,…
When I closed my restaurant because of Covid, I said I would put her to “sleep” indefinitely, and I said I’d take the time to think hard on some old, industrywide pre-existing problems: the enraging fact of ICE raids; the hard-to-stomach pay inequities between the tipped waiter and hourly cook, and the tipped bartender and…
Welcome. “Sinead O’Connor is alone, which is how she prefers to be.” So begins Amanda Hess’s profile of the musician most famous for her 1990 version of “Nothing Compares 2 U” and for tearing up a photo of Pope John Paul II on “Saturday Night Live” two years after that song’s release. O’Connor spoke to…
In California, he learned the basics at Zaca Mesa, a leading Santa Barbara winery in the 1970s. There, he also met Mr. Tolmach, who would become his partner at Au Bon Climat. Mr. Clendenen left again in 1980 to work harvests in Australia before another trip to Burgundy in 1981. “I learned that everything else…
I’m going through a Marmite phase. The inky, yeasty paste gives just the right amount of salty funk to buttered toast, whether plain or beneath fat slices of avocado, juicy sliced radish or soft-scrambled eggs. And a dab on peanut butter-filled celery sticks deepens and sharpens the flavors. My family won’t touch it, so one…
On Wednesday, dining rooms in New York City will be allowed to fill every seat for the first time since last March. This is big, in theory. In reality, we will probably keep seeing six-foot spaces between tables and plexiglass partitions for as long as the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention keeps recommending them.…
Jolene Gabriel Stulman’s The Jones, which opened in August 2019, closed because of the pandemic. Now, he has turned the space into an American bistro. Littleneck clams with a sauce inspired by escargot butter, Parmesan panisse (chickpea flatbread), arancini, fennel and citrus salad, lamb tartare and chopped steak frites are the work of James McDuffee,…
Private equity has a place at the table, and so do Oprah and Jay-Z. Food giants like Nestlé are scrambling to get a foot in the door. There are implications for the climate. There are even geopolitical rumblings. The unlikely focus of this excitement is Oatly, producer of a milk substitute made from oats that…
A food editor I know who once lived in Paris kept a list of her favorite places to eat there. She wouldn’t give it out to just anybody, though, as I learned when I asked for a copy to pass on to a friend. The list, she warned, wouldn’t be everybody’s cup of tea. You…