Not that long ago, Saumur Champigny was a wine most familiar to Americans as a staple red of Paris bistros, light, fruity and easy to gulp. That changed over the last 25 years primarily because of the brilliance of one estate, Clos Rougeard, which demonstrated that these wines, made of cabernet franc, could be as…
The Foillard is fuller-bodied than the others, a mixture of power and finesse, with a pronounced licorice flavor among the red fruits, spices, flowers and minerals. It has more bottom to it, as if it has been amped up by a few electric bass notes. Despite their variations, the bottles are insanely easy to drink…
There is not a trace of soy sauce in the fried rice at Fan Fried Rice Bar. “That would be cheating,” said Paul Chen, the owner and chef of this tiny counter-service-only spot in Bedford-Stuyvesant, Brooklyn. Mr. Chen, who grew up in Taiwan, is no traditionalist. His compact menu includes a version of fried rice…
Don’t (blindly) trust online reviews I spent a few years living in Rome and was always baffled with some of the top-rated restaurants on sites like TripAdvisor or Yelp. “This is the best pizza I’ve ever had in my life,” someone would write about a mediocre restaurant outside the Vatican, while my favorite (and very…
Some foods are so ordinary and ubiquitous that we fail to even notice them. This seems especially true in Australia when it comes to our more plebeian offerings. Some, admittedly, become iconic, like the meat pie or Vegemite. But while American food writing celebrates the tater tot, ranch dressing and Hot Pockets, Australia lets many…
Certain clichés, some more tenacious than others, define generations of Indian restaurants in the United States. It’s a font, the type stylized with curly, pointy-ended serifs. It’s a basket of cold, black-edged papad dressed up as bread service. Usually, though, it’s a menu of naan and curry, pleasing in its soft, warm vagueness. And so…
OTTAWA — For the seasonal salad at the popular Oz Kafe here, the shavings of Gouda cheese are a salty and delicious culinary accompaniment. To the United States, they are an element of an increasingly bitter trade dispute over dairy products, one that threatens to undermine its decades-long agreement with Canada. Canada’s longstanding policy of…
Frances Edelstein, a Holocaust survivor whose potato latkes, matzo ball soup and blintzes brought cholesterol-loving pilgrims to the Cafe Edison in the theater district of Manhattan for more than 30 years, died on Monday at her home in Manalapan, N.J. She was 92. Her granddaughter Lindsay Edelstein confirmed the death. With her husband, Harry —…
“I plate it with lots of parsley, on a pretty nest of linguine,” she said, so the dish looks fresh and light. You can follow her lead, serving the dish with pasta or something starchy to soak up the sauce, or with a steamed vegetable that goes well with lemon, like green beans or broccoli.…
Sometimes when I am waiting, and waiting, for a barista to steam milk for my cortado, I like to pass the time by imagining what life would be like if Howard Schultz had boarded the wrong plane in 1981 and flown to Penang instead of Milan. Starbucks, the company he joined after that trip and…