‘Spot On’ Spaghetti Carbonara

Happy Valentine’s Day to all who celebrate! I do, enthusiastically. I’ll take any excuse to bring out oysters, Champagne and chocolate on the same evening. We observe the day at home, with a dinner that’s easy to throw together on a weeknight yet still feels exceptional. Like spaghetti carbonara. It’s not hard to make, but…

A Sweet-and-Sour Tofu That Balances It All

As 2023 gave way to 2024, the weather snapped, and I was suddenly drawn to very particular kinds of food: comforting, restoring, reassuring. As I leafed through Najmieh Batmanglij’s wonderful book “Food of Life: Ancient Persian and Modern Iranian Cooking and Ceremonies,” it was her khoreshes — delicate, refined braises — that were clearly calling,…

Cook as if You’re in a Rom-Com

It’s the third act. After an adorable meet-cute and some bumbling mishaps, our romantic leads — you and your valentine — have finally found each other. The lighting is warm, the wine is open and Aaron Neville’s “Crazy Love” is playing softly in the background. It’s time for dinner. Valentine’s Day calls for rom-com cooking,…

Easy Cleanup Is Romantic

Should I be embarrassed by the fact I like Valentine’s Day? Probably? But I do. I like everything chocolate, I think flowers are charming, I have nothing against a nice glass of wine and I melt when my children present me with homemade cards scribbled with their sweet handwriting. If you welcome an opportunity to…

The Cookbook ‘French Boulangerie’ Embraces Fermentation and Goes Beyond France

The subtitle of the stunning new cookbook “French Boulangerie,” from Ferrandi Paris, the French equivalent of the Culinary Institute of America, should be “Fermentation.” All but a couple of the recipes in the book involve the process. At the outset, after covering ingredients and explaining gluten, there are lengthy how-to’s describing several fermentation techniques: levain,…