In the grand pantheon of salad dressings, French dressing can be easily forgotten — a sticky, sweet, carrot-colored blend overshadowed by America’s undisputed heavyweight champion of dressings, ranch. But the federal government has shown great interest in the humble dressing, painstakingly regulating since 1950 the ingredients that it must contain and revising the rules at…
Henry Haller’s entree to the White House came in late 1965, after the executive chef hired by the Kennedys had quit, finding it beneath his dignity at long last to prepare food like the spare ribs, spoon bread and mashed garbanzo beans requested by the subsequent White House occupants, Lyndon and Lady Bird Johnson. Mr.…
Hello and welcome to Five Weeknight Dishes. It is the craziest time of any year, let alone the craziest year. Anything that is not explicitly connected to holiday celebration should be pretty simple to execute. I haven’t finished shopping! I haven’t wrapped presents! I haven’t even made the list of all the other things I…
There’s a lot I’ll miss about my usual holiday shindigs this December. There’ll be no sipping eggnog in red lipstick and spangles, no parking myself in front of platters of Camembert and Stilton, not even any sleeves of Ritz crackers with that unidentifiable orange cheese spread I look forward to year after year. But while…
One of the most memorable dishes on our table was chicken cafreal, or galinha cafreal. Believed to be rooted in Mozambique, chicken cafreal was brought by the Portuguese to Goa, where it underwent a transformation and eventually became the dish we know now. The chicken is first marinated for a short time in a cilantro…
Executives at the Brazilian steakhouse chain Fogo de Chão thought they had seen the worst of it. Earlier in the year, when seemingly each hour brought news of another city or state abruptly shutting down because of the pandemic, executives switched from email to the messaging system WhatsApp to communicate in real time with the…
It’s been a dismal year, but let’s look at the bright side: It’s nearly over. Recently in Wine School, we had a polite discussion about whether 2020 was worthy of being ushered out with sparkling wine. The verdict was clear: Forget about what 2020 deserves. We have earned all the sparkling wine we want. The…
Georges Laval Lively, pure, energetic, mineral Champagnes like the Brut Nature ($90). Transatlantic Bubbles, Woodbridge, Conn. Larmandier-Bernier Pinpoint biodynamic blanc de blancs from the Côtes des Blancs, always full of verve and energy, including the nonvintage Longitude ($60) and the vintage Terre de Vertus ($85). Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, N.Y. Pierre Péters Exquisite blanc de…
“The secret of Chartreuse has long been the despair of distillers, just as the natural blue of forget-me-nots has been the despair of painters,” reads an 1886 document referred to in a recent history of the company and order. Father Holleran spent five years overseeing the distillation process, ordering ingredients and planning its production schedules.…
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