The comment from Preston G. of San Francisco seemed dismissive and definitive. Over the last month, as this column has been exploring zinfandels that were a step back from the popular over-the-top blockbuster style, he wrote: “Restrained is not authentic to the variety.” Here at Wine School, expressions of historical certainty about wine generally arouse…
This month we’re going to try something a little different. Ordinarily, I suggest three bottles of the same type of wine. Instead, I want to compare three wines that are closely related but come from different appellations within a larger region, the Northern Rhône Valley of France. Each is made with the syrah grape. But…
Separated from perfection by nothing more than a pinch of salt, ripe tomatoes inspire a very particular type of summer joy. In the last few weeks of the season, many of us consume them ravenously, as if storing sunshine for the cold months ahead. You’ll still find plenty at their peak right now, but even…
KUALA LUMPUR, Malaysia — The setup of the two friends’ agricultural venture was unusual. Their farm sat next to a gas station, inside a shipping container where the plants grew in vertically stacked shelves. And the timing of their first sales — during the early days of Malaysia’s coronavirus outbreak — seemed less than ideal.…
Two months ago, several women and people of color who had worked for and supported the Southern Foodways Alliance, an association dedicated to the study and preservation of the region’s food and to healing its tortured racist history, called on John T. Edge, the influential white man who heads the alliance, to step aside. On…
This is the week that we face the truth: The days are getting shorter, and the nights colder. (As I type this, I’m wearing a sweater for the first time since June.) In a normal year, tonight would mark the opening of the Columbia County Fair in Chatham, N.Y., held continuously since 1840 and attended…
The line snaked around the block on a recent Sunday afternoon as Angelenos on foot and in their cars waited to receive grocery bags brimming with squash and tomatoes, multicolored carrots and loaves of fresh-baked bread from two dozen volunteers, most of them young. The food giveaway took place under makeshift tents set up in…
Headliner Taco Mix FonteNova Jorge Sanchez, the Puebla, Mexico, native behind the Taco Mix taquerias in East Harlem, has opened his first sit-down location in Riverdale, in the Bronx. (He kept the previous restaurant’s name, FonteNova, out front.) For now, the brick-walled dining room with a stretch of bar is not serving guests indoors, but…
One very hot Friday afternoon in June, the chef Max Rocha, 30, packed a picnic hamper with a pork terrine, an almond tart, some strawberries and a loaf of freshly baked sourdough bread and cycled two miles east from his home in London’s Hackney neighborhood to that of his sister, the fashion designer Simone Rocha,…
Since the pandemic began, many restaurants have pivoted to providing takeout and delivery. It’s a move that shows no signs of diminishing, even as they reopen for dining in one form or another. To accommodate this increased demand, they are depending more and more on various types of off-premises kitchens. “I think it will continue,”…