Food That’s Worth Waiting For

Good morning. I made a quesadilla the other day: ham and Swiss cheese with some mango salsa I had in the fridge, with sour cream and Jamaican hot sauce. I took my time making it, too, cooking the tortillas slowly in butter so they crisped and pillowed, flipping them back and forth a few times…

The Allure of Crispy Fried Chicken

LONDON — Fried chicken, crispy chicken, chicken schnitzel: Is there another dish so ubiquitous and yet, so particular? Everyone has one, yes, but everyone has their own. An “Around the World in 80 Dishes” cookbook could easily be filled with nothing but fried chicken recipes: Austrian schnitzel, Korean fried chicken, Italian pollo fritto, Japanese tonkatsu,…

How to Stir-Fry Without a Wok

My youngest child recently said to me, “I wish I was more Chinese.” We were eating mooncakes, trying to catch the bits of salted preserved egg yolk crumbling from the sticky-sweet lotus-seed filling. When I asked whether that sentiment applied to how we eat at home, I already knew the answer. We have carbonara as…

Salt It Like You Mean It

My kids’ babysitter asked me the other day how I make my chicken. The girls love it, she said — one of the most gratifying things you can hear when you cook for young kids, who are tiny, tyrannical critics. (Here are more ideas for what to feed them.) My secret is that I use…