A Light Lemon Cake for Summer

The chef Benjamin Vaschetti, who had a brief run on the Upper West Side with the now-closed restaurant Mokum, has started a food and hospitality service with his wife, Natalia Vaschetti, for high-end clients at home. But without engaging the couple for a catered dinner or as your concierge to book restaurant reservations in Paris,…

A New Helper in the Kitchen

Cuong Pham, who, with the chef Diep Tran, created the excellent Red Boat brand fish sauce in 2011, has introduced several other products since then. The latest is Kho sauce, a kitchen shortcut made with Red Boat fish sauce, to use for braising meats and tofu. In Vietnamese kho means to simmer or braise, yielding…

Kolaches Come to Greenwich Village

Kolaches, the Texas specialty with Czech roots, found a home at a shop in Bedford-Stuyvesant, Brooklyn, nine years ago. Now an owner of Brooklyn Kolache — Autumn Stanford, a native Texan — has opened a Manhattan branch for the filled pastries, which became popular in Central Texas in the 1880s with a wave of Eastern…

A Chef Looks Back on the Locavore Life

Has it really been 10 years since Peter Hoffman closed Savoy, his steadfastly locavore gem on the edge of SoHo? Seems like yesterday. His new book, “What’s Good?,” is a lively memoir covering the arc of the restaurant’s life span, with plenty of detours into his suburban childhood; his culinary awakening; his wife and family;…

A Wine From Nowhere

These “amelioration techniques” were dishonest and fraudulent, as the producers tried to pass off their blends as Bordeaux or Burgundy. Penfolds, of course, is doing nothing of the sort. It’s transparent with its marketing and “Wine of the World” labeling. And with suggested retail prices of $149 a bottle for the Bin 149 and $700…