I love spaghetti and meatballs — making it, eating it, talking about it. That’s part of why I began obsessing over Anna Francese Gass’s new recipe for ricotta polpette before it was even published. Anna’s polpette are essentially ricotta dumplings, made from nothing more than cheese, bread crumbs and eggs, seasoned with parsley, salt and…
This article is part of Overlooked, a series of obituaries about remarkable people whose deaths, beginning in 1851, went unreported in The Times. Bright red, slightly sweet, slightly tangy, a popular Philippine condiment that’s almost like the real thing: It’s banana ketchup. Its creator, Maria Orosa, was an innovative food scientist and Filipino nationalist who…
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THE BEARS WERE dark shapes among the furrowed oaks in Dachigam National Park, a maharajah’s private hunting preserve turned wilderness sanctuary more than 5,000 feet above sea level outside of Srinagar, Kashmir. It was the fall of 2018. I had landed in Srinagar that afternoon and now stood in deep woods alongside the Kashmiri chef…
Inside the white brick walls of Rodney Scott’s Whole Hog BBQ in Charleston, S.C., past the bright dining room, is the pit room, the walls, floors and equipment shades of copper and black. There, pork slowly barbecues over hardwood that has been burned into coals, prepared with the craft that Mr. Scott, a chef and…
Whenever I make brown butter, the first cue that it’s almost ready is sound: that moment when the frenetic hiss of melting fat goes quiet. That’s when I know the moisture has cooked out and the milk solids are about to caramelize at the bottom of the pan. The next sign is scent. Does my…
Then I met the Filipino Canadian poet J. Mae Barizo, who introduced me to the Filipino American poet Sarah Gambito, who in turn invited me to a gathering at her home of Filipino artists, writers and filmmakers. She called it the Soul Pood Salon, a wink at how native speakers often pronounce the letter “f”…
Life in a city of more than eight million people means that at some point you will wait in a line. Some lines are (arguably) worth it, like seeing the “Girl With a Pearl Earring” on its last day at the Frick. Others are questionable, like waiting to get into Union Pool in the Year…
The Vasper It’s not on Madison Avenue, but this 120-seat restaurant and bar in the Park Avenue Mondrian evokes the 1960s “Mad Men” era with classic cocktails, chips and onion dip and lobster Thermidor for two. (Wednesday) 444 Park Avenue South (30th Street), 646-948-2464, thevasper.com. KJun Pun intended, this mash-up of Korean and Cajun, formerly…
It’s hard to imagine anybody who will be disappointed by the new Brooklyn restaurant Laser Wolf except, of course, people who are under the impression that there will be actual lasers and wolves. The name is a joke about the Lazar Wolf character from the musical “Fiddler on the Roof.” He’s a Jewish butcher, and…