Five-Star Pasta

Hello and welcome to Five Weeknight Dishes. We are still at home, and we are still cooking. Let’s acknowledge that it can be a slog. I’ve found that it helps a little when I make a recipe that brings with it some kind of small revelation or a beat of joy: a tip acquired, textures…

Mushrooms, the Last Survivors

The mushrooms sit on high, behind glass, above bottles of Armagnac and mezcal in a bar at the Standard hotel in Manhattan’s East Village. They are barely recognizable at first, just eerie silhouettes resembling coral growths in an aquarium, blooming in laboratory-teal light: tightly branched clusters of oyster mushrooms in hot pink, yolk yellow and…

A September Wine Romance

It wasn’t much of a summer, I’m afraid. The empty ballparks, the missing actors and musicians, the fraught travel, the social distancing — little was there to divert attention momentarily from the pitiless price of the Covid-19 pandemic and the destruction caused by climate change. At least fresh summer fruits and vegetables were bountiful. But…

The Perfect Moment for Vegan Tacos

LOS ANGELES — On a recent Saturday morning, the chef and writer Jocelyn Ramirez faced the camera on her laptop, dug her hands into a bowl of pale, unripe jackfruit, and pulled it apart with her fingers for a rapt audience on Zoom. “It’s a foundation. It’s a blank canvas,” Ms. Ramirez said. Her business,…

A Fusilli Made for Chianti

Joining the many gluten-free pastas made from vegetables is fava bean fusilli, from Explore Cuisine, a company that specializes in such alternatives. The little corkscrews have a mild flavor, but they’re softer and somewhat more fragile than traditional fusilli, so they’re best cooked al dente. Toss them with pesto or fresh chopped tomatoes and herbs,…