There was a guy named Eddie in my weeklong summer rental share this year who devoted one whole precious vacation day to making mole: hours of frying and dry-toasting and steeping and then wiping up the splatters. The other housemates wandered in and out from the deck or the beach where they’d been, doing a…
For all of its worship of novelty and new faces, New York has an echelon of veteran chefs who have quietly persevered for decades, admired and continually achieving but not making any new headlines. In October, though, several will step back into the spotlight. Top among them is Alfred Portale, who was the chef and…
At first, Manoella Buffara thought the idea impossible and even “a little bit crazy”: commuting nearly 5,000 miles from southern Brazil to open a restaurant in New York. But after years of trying to persuade the critically acclaimed chef to take the proposal seriously, the American entrepreneurs Michael Satsky and Brian Gefter finally succeeded. Her…
New York has become a food-hall town, with perhaps more of these collections of food and dining stalls than in any other city in the country. This season, there will be some showy additions, as operators are increasingly selective as to who gets to set up shop. Doris Huang has filled her shiny cobalt-and-gold food…
“Natural” has become the attention-grabbing word in the wine world, referring to wines that are made with minimal intervention, like chemical additives or commercial yeast. Natural wines will populate the lists of several restaurants coming this fall, and they’re the specialties at four new wine bars. Jeremiah Stone and Fabian von Hauske Valtierra, who began…
Four years ago, Linden Pride and his wife, Nathalie Hudson, bought Caffé Dante, a beloved, century-old Greenwich Village hangout, and reinvented it as a stylish Italianate cocktail bar and restaurant. It was a gamble for the couple, who had immigrated a few years earlier from their native Australia, but the new bar, Dante, caught on.…
When Victoria Blamey interviewed in March for the job of executive chef at Gotham Bar and Grill, a Greenwich Village fixture for 35 years, she had never eaten there. She didn’t even know the kind of food it served. So she came in for dinner. The difference from her cooking “was night and day,” she…
It may take some vertical maneuvering to get there: venturing down into the 34th Street-Herald Square subway station to try sea pineapple, or up to the third floor of an office building in Koreatown for abomasum, a cow stomach. But at new restaurants this fall, New Yorkers can try a number of dishes and ingredients…
Opening a restaurant takes vision, but also money, patience and luck, especially in New York, where the competition is fierce and simple details like getting a gas hookup can become ordeals. Experienced chefs and restaurateurs are better at it, and this fall they’ll be the ones setting most of the tempting new tables. Many of…
A flight to Seattle from New York can entail considerable expense and a connection or two. But this fall will offer an alternate route: a trip to 57th Street and Broadway. Nordstrom, the Seattle-based department-store chain, will offer a taste of that city’s signature Asian-influenced, seafood-driven, somewhat rustic cooking at several restaurants in the major…