One of the biggest compromises I had to make with my husband, Daniel, back when we were dating was about eggplant. I realized he hated it, so I avoided cooking it for our together meals for years. Whenever I was alone, though, I went all out on the eggplant front, stewing it down with olive…
Instead, good wine was something personal, cultural and historic, produced by people with the deepest respect and understanding of their land and vineyards. She once quoted to me Hubert de Montille, an influential vigneron in the Côte de Beaune, with whom she worked. “He said, ‘My vineyards were here before I was born, they will…
Some of my favorite recipes in the world were developed by cooks who refused to waste stale bread — or roti, or sangak — repurposing tough, old crusts into unexpectedly delicious meals. In Tuscany, cooks ripped up hulking, dried-out country bread and soaked the pieces in water, then squeezed out the extra liquid and tossed…
When searching for a meatless dinner idea that’s still rich in protein, eggs are underrated. Sure, having breakfast for dinner is always a solid option, but eggs are good for more than being a side to pancakes and hash browns. Below are recipes for pasta, curry, sandwiches and scrambles that are decidedly dinner-appropriate. If you’re…
Hello again … and goodbye! We’ve reached September, which means that Sam Sifton is back on the grid and will be back in your inbox on Friday. In the meantime, have you ever made jam? I simmered up my first batch in college after reading a recipe for plum jam in Laurie Colwin’s brilliant “More…
It’s almost Labor Day, which means that our time together is coming to an end. We laughed, we cried, we snacked, we island hopped, we … assessed infection risks. After a long summer of mixed vibes, my newsletter partner Michael Gold and I decided to (virtually) sit down and reflect on all of the strangeness…
Shortly before we were to wriggle our way around the horse and find our places at the table, Madame took me into the kitchen, opened the oven door, pointed to the chicken and exclaimed, “Qu’il est beau!” She didn’t exaggerate — it was beautiful in every way. There were the simultaneous pleasures of hearing the…
Try to get a reservation at one of Manhattan’s luxury sushi bars and you’d never guess that the restaurant business is struggling. As I write this, you need to wait a week to experience one of Shion Uino’s $420 omakase meals at 69 Leonard Street. Masa, where lunch and dinner are now $800 a person,…
Headliner HOWM Cocina & Cocktails The name is pronounced “home.” Remembering how it’s spelled is something else. The idea, according to the Gilded Group, which manages the restaurant in partnership with the Selina Chelsea hotel, is to express people coming together with food and drink. Got that? What the name doesn’t reflect is the nature…
“Lettuce is not typically found in a salade niçoise — it’s sacrilege,” says the writer and art critic Fanny Singer. “But I’ll sneak lettuce into every meal.” It’s a fitting act of rebellion for the daughter of the chef and restaurateur Alice Waters, the owner of Berkeley’s legendary temple to local produce, Chez Panisse. Meanwhile,…