Sprightly, Speedy Chicken Saltimbocca

Good morning. Saltimbocca — the name translates from the Italian as “jump in the mouth” — is a dish traditionally made with veal cutlets wrapped with prosciutto and sage, quickly cooked in butter and oil, and occasionally topped with cheese for a run beneath the broiler. Saltimbocca is, our David Tanis has written, largely a…

What Do We Gain by Eating With Our Hands?

BEFORE THE $135-PER-PERSON tasting menu begins, you are gently invited to wash your hands. A sink stands along the wall. It’s important to make these ablutions publicly, to show everyone that your hands are clean, because at Naks, a Filipino restaurant that opened in Manhattan’s East Village in December, there are no forks on the…

Citrus for the Save

The texts start rolling in around the last week of January. “I hope the girls are getting their prescribed four Sumos a day.” “Two Sumos down before 1 p.m.” “And now I’m eating a Sumo!!!” My friends and I approach peak Sumo orange season with thunderous enthusiasm, and for good reason: The arrival of the…