How to Find the Best Champagne for You

Georges Laval Lively, pure, energetic, mineral Champagnes like the Brut Nature ($90). Transatlantic Bubbles, Woodbridge, Conn. Larmandier-Bernier Pinpoint biodynamic blanc de blancs from the Côtes des Blancs, always full of verve and energy, including the nonvintage Longitude ($60) and the vintage Terre de Vertus ($85). Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, N.Y. Pierre Péters Exquisite blanc de…

An Elixir From the French Alps, Frozen in Time

“The secret of Chartreuse has long been the despair of distillers, just as the natural blue of forget-me-nots has been the despair of painters,” reads an 1886 document referred to in a recent history of the company and order. Father Holleran spent five years overseeing the distillation process, ordering ingredients and planning its production schedules.…

Your New Favorite Condiment: Salsa Macha

In collaboration with the store Masienda, Salgado has made a salsa macha with chicatana, delicious winged ants, imported from Oaxaca, instead of nuts. And though he generally uses a neutral oil, he’s also made it with duck fat, beef fat and lard. When I talked recently with Denise Vallejo, a vegan chef who applies salsa…

New Restaurant Offerings Amid the Pandemic

The suspension of indoor dining in New York City ordered by Gov. Andrew M. Cuomo is a blow to the restaurants struggling to stay afloat and keep their workers employed. Since the pandemic started, many have tried creative solutions like sharing kitchen space or offering meal kits. Some restaurants, like Avena Downtown, have turned their…

No One Loves Arby’s Like I Do

My childhood was defined by two rituals: three hours of Mormon Church service on Sundays and a trip to Arby’s almost as regularly. The Arby’s location in my Texas hometown possessed all the visual splendor that the church I was raised in did not: stained glass and smoky wood paneling, sauce packets stored in a…

How to Collect Salt

“You need ocean water,” says Kuuleialoha Gaisoa, 45, whose family has been harvesting salt in Hanapepe, on the west side of Kauai, for generations. In Hawaiian, the word for salt is pa’akai, meaning “to solidify the sea,” and the salt from the patch that Gaisoa works is known throughout the islands for its sweet, briny…