Roasted and grilled eggplants are all well and good, but nothing beats the crisp skin and burnished flesh of eggplant that’s been fried. Frying eggplant isn’t something I’ll do very often, and rarely on a weeknight. But every once in a while, when the urge to eat an entire platter of salty, soft-centered fried eggplant…
Good morning. I’ve spent the week making like Danny Meyer, the restaurateur, who many nights makes it his business to visit the dining rooms he maintains across the city, even as his Shake Shack empire expands across the nation. Of course I don’t own any restaurants. (That would be hilarious.) But this week The Times…
At Birds of a Feather in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, a bowl of slippery, feather-light pork won tons in chile oil has a red ring suspended around its edge that, to the spice-averse, may look like a warning. But the heat arrives gently, the oil used sparingly in a special sauce that’s more sweet and tangy than…
There is some controversy surrounding nonstick cookware since nonstick frypans and saucepans are frequently coated with a material known as Teflon. Teflon coatings break down when heated at high temperatures, which can release toxic fumes into the air. Many cooks are turning to alternative cookware. A popular trend at the moment is ceramic cookware. Ceramic…
Fashion is notoriously fickle. But hemlines have nothing on wine. The difference is that in fashion, styles change because a huge industry depends on persuading consumers that new clothing is necessary even if the old clothing still has years of life. But wine has no need to create turnover. Each bottle can be poured out…
Good morning. I was in Montauk over the weekend, the easternmost tip of Long Island in New York, chasing fish in the rips and off the point, then west along the south side of the island to Warhol’s and Ditch. On shore, there were the usual dock hangs, and two somewhat-larger affairs into which I…
I was eating a corned beef sandwich in an Irish bar in Brooklyn, a quiet shebeen with excellent service and food that was reliably terrible. The corned beef was an outlier, salty and sweet, fat-flecked, spicy, delicious. I told the bartender, an owner of the place, how much I liked it. He flashed a wicked…
Headliner Nami Nori The chefs Taka Sakaeda and Jihan Lee, who both worked at the sushi master Masa Takayama’s restaurants, are behind separate counters in this new restaurant’s elegant pale-wood dining room. (The operations director, Lisa Limb, also worked at Mr. Takayama’s restaurants.) But unlike at Masa, the specialties here are temaki hand rolls. And…
In 2017, the Dallas food blogger Urvashi Pitre published the “Indian Instant Pot Cookbook.” By any measure, it was a hit, selling more than 100,000 copies. But under the contract she signed with her publisher, Callisto Media, Ms. Pitre received no advance, the payment often given to an author when a book deal is signed.…
Billy Durney, the Brooklyn restaurateur and pitmaster, has been talking for several years about the fried chicken that he planned to bring to Red Hook. At first, there was no reason to doubt him. That the man is comfortable with long time horizons was clear to anyone who watched how patiently he studied the science…