In an encyclopedic new book, the Italian amari expert Matteo Zed covers the spirit, the bitter drink as old as monasteries and made new in Brooklyn. Amari are sipped as digestivos, aperitivos and in cocktails. He tells their history, describes the 50 botanicals often used when making them, gives an idea of their styles and…
Yoshino New York With just 12 comfy chairs, not stools, the chef Tadashi Yoshida will prepare sushi omakase dinners with approximately six appetizers, 12 pieces of sushi and dessert, for $400. The chef, who followed his father behind the sushi counter, relocated his father’s restaurant to Nagoya, a city between Tokyo and Osaka. It closed…
Years ago, at a New York restaurant called Nishi, I tried a cheeky, cheeseless version of cacio e pepe made with chickpea miso. I was skeptical, but the hot, slippery noodles were so satisfying, so full of salty dimension and depth, so absurdly delicious, that I didn’t miss the cheese at all. There’s both nuance…
Jennifer Jacquet, an associate professor of environmental studies at New York University, said legal activism has become the single-most effective tool for holding companies accountable for questionable marketing claims. Professor Jacquet, an expert on seafood production, said the labeling rules for farmed salmon, for example, are so weak that companies do not have to disclose…
Good morning. Happy Labor Day. Because of the coronavirus there’ll be no West Indian American Day Parade this year along Eastern Parkway in Brooklyn, but if you’d like to get into the spirit of past and future holidays, you might try this luscious Jamaican oxtail stew (above) that I learned to make a decade ago…
PART OF THE confusion is a matter of terms. The ancients grappled with how to categorize the sensations that come to us through food. As the classicist John Paulas outlines in his 2017 essay “Tastes of the Extraordinary: Flavor Lists in Imperial Rome,” the Greek philosopher Alexander of Aphrodisias, around the turn of the third…
Ms. Custer taught workshops around the world and, for more than a decade, at the Culinary Institute of America, in Hyde Park, N. Y. She retired after her book was published. In addition to her daughter, she is survived by her sister, Sally Wright; her brother, Robert Borgaard; her stepchildren, Jan Congdon and Paula Held;…
There’s a running gag about honeydew on the Netflix animated series “BoJack Horseman.” In a string of jabs, the hapless melon is trodden on as “garbage fruit,” cantaloupe’s “dumb friend.” Not without good reason. Who hasn’t bitten into a bland, watery cube of honeydew from the top of an airport fruit cup filled mostly with…
Why do we still have the ethnic aisle in American grocery stores? According to a recent article by Priya Krishna, a Food reporter, the issue is complicated. While to many shoppers, it may seem excluding and antiquated, to others, it is a helpful place to find familiar ingredients or discover new ones. We want to…
The cookbook author Betty Liu grew up in a California neighborhood with many Chinese bakeries but could not rely on them to satisfy her mooncake cravings. “Most of them only sold the classic molded Cantonese mooncake,” she said. Ms. Liu’s parents are from Shanghai, where mooncakes are flaky and spherical, stuffed with juicy pork. Cantonese…