A Pretty Perfect Pollo Asado

Good morning. September played out strangely where I hang out: unreasonably Augustlike at first, and then hard into autumnal damp and gloom. I know we’re nowhere near last licks on grilling season, but there’s something a little valedictory about lighting the fires these days. I feel as if I’m cooking on borrowed time. So it’s…

Burn This Cheesecake

Good morning. It was one of those meals that sticks in your mind for days afterward: steamed lobsters with drawn butter and a plate of baby potatoes. I won’t wax on about the lobsters. They were perfect and should have been. That’s what you’re paying for, when you buy lobster. But, man, those potatoes. Wrinkled…

Cheap Eats NYC

In 1992, my colleague Eric Asimov invented a new column for the Times that sought out “restaurants where people can eat lavishly for $25 and under.” By the time it was retired, about a decade ago, dining out in New York had become expensive, even at the cheap end, and the column’s writers were regularly…

How to Use Up That Tomato Paste

A few months ago, on the hunt for topics for this fine newsletter, I polled the masses (read: asked people on Instagram) for the ingredients they struggled to use up. The deafening chorus of “tomato paste” replies could not be ignored. A pantry staple, tomato paste is a thick, concentrated purée of slow-cooked tomatoes that…