In Paris this winter, with the weather seesawing between frigid and mild, I found myself baking with apples. I made pandowdy, twice. I made a few apple crisps, one with a gingerbread spice that I liked a lot. I made an apple tart that had a layer of applesauce and a pinwheel of sliced apples.…
BERLIN — The tradition has persisted for nearly two centuries in what is now Germany, through wars, epidemics and revolutions. Before dawn on the bitterest of winter mornings, vintners harvest grapes that are frozen on the vine, pressing them before they thaw to produce a small quantity of exquisitely concentrated sweet white wine. But this…
At Chez Ma Tante in Brooklyn, the first restaurant Aidan O’Neal and Jake Leiber ran together, early press reports portrayed Mr. O’Neal as the executive chef and Mr. Leiber as his second in command. But in interviews they gave — always in tandem — it was clear that they were equal partners and that they…
Texture, appearance and flavor: These are the elements of meat that the new vegan alternatives from Impossible Foods and Beyond Meat are trying to capture, with varying degrees of success. Here’s how they do it: Texture In ground beef, animal protein provides springy texture and allows the meat to bind to itself. (Hamburgers would simply…
SAN MATEO, Calif. — Even before opening my restaurant, Wursthall, here a couple years ago, I knew that taking vegan and vegetarian options seriously — with both traditionally vegan foods and modern meat alternatives — would be a central element of its success. Though sausages form the backbone of the menu, my team and I…
Headliner Peak At the pinnacle of 30 Hudson Yards, the tallest tower in the complex, will be this sleek restaurant with stunning views from the 101st floor. The architect David Rockwell’s company, the Rockwell Group, has given the space a richly elegant but subdued look with shades of gray as the dominant palette. The Peak…
Cassoulet, the centuries-old specialty from southwest France of baked meat and beans, is a cold-weather warmer par excellence. At La Mercerie, Marie-Aude Rose assembles hers with lamb necks, pork ribs, fat back and sausages, nestled in succulently buttery, garlicky white coco and tarbais beans, paved with crusty bread crumbs. It’s baked and served in a…
Jackfruit, said to be the world’s largest tree fruit, has become an ingredient of choice among vegans for its ability to masquerade as meat, notably as pulled pork in barbecue dishes. But for the new Seril’s Chakka Chips, jackfruit doubles for mango. The crisp, golden, tart-sweet petal-like pieces are simply fried in coconut oil. The…
In Japan, making intricate sweets called wagashi — usually with bean and rice pastes and molded or shaped like flowers — is an art. The confections are often served at tea ceremonies and given as gifts. Shioyoshi-ken, a shop that has been in business in Kyoto since 1882, is known for its wagashi mastery, which…
The international array of vendors of dumplings, sandwiches and sweets in the Turnstyle market at the 59th Street-Columbus Circle subway station now includes a stand from the Netherlands, selling cheese. As a student in California, Younes Shina, who is from Rotterdam, missed his hometown Goudas. Along with a partner, he now imports and sells them…