Booming out of a small speaker in the corner of the cafeteria at Avenues, a private school in Chelsea in Manhattan, a recorded voice asked, “Can you hear me?” It belonged to Woldy Reyes, 32, a hearing-impaired Filipino-American chef who as a child pretended to be fully deaf and didn’t speak, afraid that he sounded…
Headliner Lamia’s Fish Market Forget the typical seagoing décor often found in fish restaurants: running lights, ropes and nets, and taxidermied sailfish. Lamia Funti has taken an over-the-top approach, in the style of Farallon in San Francisco, to her restaurant’s dining areas. There’s a glittering mermaid amid gilded fish in relief, mirrors that look like…
WEST HARRISON, Ind. — If you see a steeple in southeastern Indiana, you can be pretty sure that fried chicken is nearby. If you see the steeple in West Harrison, about 20 miles from the Indiana-Ohio-Kentucky border, that chicken is fried across the street at St. Leon Tavern by the owner, Aaron Klenke. Most people…
When a batch of banh beo comes to the table at Van Da, any confusion about how to eat them does not last long. Banh beo, a species of small rice cake, are a favorite afternoon snack in the central Vietnamese city of Hue. Each one is steamed in a ceramic dish just big enough…
Molly O’Neill, a freewheeling writer born into a family bent on raising baseball players who would transform herself from a chef into one of America’s leading chroniclers of food, died on Sunday in Manhattan. She was 66. Her family said the cause was cancer; her long and public bout with the disease and with an…
Catering to brick-and-mortar store is a common trajectory for chefs, one that Shalini Vaswani followed this year. She grew up in Flushing, Queens, and now has a shop in Industry City, Brooklyn, where she sells her inventive Indian home cooking, mostly to take away. A best seller is gently spiced Masala mac and cheese. Other…
For a Nordic take on summer drinks like the Southside, try aquavit. A pair of new aquavits from Svol reflect different Scandinavian styles: Danish and Swedish. Both have flavors driven by caraway, as is typical, but the Danish version is more powerfully spiced. Herbs, notably dill, are evident in the Swedish one, which also has…
There are some treasures to gather at Frutas y Verduras, the fruit and vegetable stand at Little Spain, the Spanish food hall at Hudson Yards. You can find artichokes, asparagus and ruffled lettuces in lots of places, but here they’re shown alongside beautifully arrayed ribbony romano beans, eight inches long, to simmer until tender ($3…
Any survey of food as art has to feature Giuseppe Arcimboldo, the 16th-century Italian painter whose portraits are montages of food. There is a take-off on one, by the photographer Klaus Enrique, on the cover of this lovely volume, “A Feast for the Eyes.” The book is an alphabetical compendium, with entries showing and explaining…
