How to Use Up Those Easter Eggs

Good morning. I had a lovely run of Brooklyn sandwiches going, before work, school and Easter intervened to send me back to the kitchen. There was a classic Saigon-style bánh mì from Ba Xuyen in Sunset Park. A colossal roast beef, fried eggplant and mozzarella hero from Defonte’s in Red Hook, with hot peppers, gravy…

We’re Going Full Carrot Cake Mode

On the subject of raisins in carrot cake, the food writer Allison Robicelli once wrote for Taste Cooking, “They don’t just get to show up in desserts, acting like they belong there when they have no business stepping outside of the world of trail mix.” However you may feel on the matter — raisins or…

It’s Time for Honey Baked Ham

Good morning. What I smelled during a 10-minute bicycle ride today: wood smoke, diesel exhaust, grass, frying bacon, rotting wood, bleach, balloon rubber, dollar pizza, a tendril of burning weed, the sharpness of electrical ozone, cart coffee and, last, the strong, sweet scent of lilies — Easter in the air. Good Friday! There’ll be ham…

10 Austrian Red Wines to Drink Now

Austria is best known for its white wines, grüner veltliners and rieslings primarily. But it also produces brilliant reds, which, because they often seem like afterthoughts, can be great values. Why do they seem so relatively obscure? Partly, it’s because grapes like blaufränkisch, which has great potential for making complex, contemplative wines, and zweigelt, the…