Good morning. I had a lovely run of Brooklyn sandwiches going, before work, school and Easter intervened to send me back to the kitchen. There was a classic Saigon-style bánh mì from Ba Xuyen in Sunset Park. A colossal roast beef, fried eggplant and mozzarella hero from Defonte’s in Red Hook, with hot peppers, gravy and mayonnaise. A ton-katsu sando on pillowy milk bread from Taku Sando in Greenpoint.
These were all incredible. I could eat store-bought sandwiches in Kings County for a living, and I did for a time. (A few years ago, I ginned up a recipe for the roast beef hero from Defonte’s.) But today is Easter, and not really a day for sandwiches — unless they’re ham ones on little potato rolls, with strong mustard, to eat in a side yard in the chill while children run around looking for hidden eggs.
Give them to Father, please! (He’ll trade for chocolates.) I want to make deviled eggs (above) to celebrate the holiday puckishly, or maybe a big egg salad to serve in lettuce cups. I definitely want to peel a few for pickled eggs, cured with beets, vinegar and sugar: beautiful pink orbs with a briny, slightly sweet flavor to eat as the week progresses.
Featured Recipe
Deviled Eggs
That’s today’s plan (along with a ham). As for the rest of the week. …
Monday
I love Sarah Copeland’s recipe for tofu makhani, a vegetarian take on butter chicken, for both its ease of preparation and its deep flavor. Some replace the heavy cream added at the end with coconut milk. I am not one of them.
