Good morning. I probably spend about 20 percent of my time in the kitchen thinking about how much better life would be if I had a new stove. A different stove, at any rate, one without balking burners and rusting-through grate supporters, one without pinholes in the oven floor, one where if you set the…
Year-end lists can be very revealing. Take, for instance, Spotify’s personalized lists of users’ most-played songs and artists, all of which can be telling. Was there a lot of upbeat pop or groovy disco? Or was it all Death Cab for Cutie, a sign that the vibes were not quite so high? Whatever the case,…
The first time I made hoshigaki, the Japanese dried persimmons that are massaged every day or so to even out their shape and moisture and to soften the fibers inside, was at the cooking instructor Sonoko Sakai’s home in the Highland Park part of town. Standing around a table in the garden, we washed, trimmed…
Opening Noda After four years at 6 West 28th Street, this Japanese omakase restaurant, which was awarded one star in the 2021 Michelin Guide, has moved to a somewhat larger location. In addition to 10 seats at a lavishly decorated sushi bar, there are four tables in a lounge. The new restaurant includes a binchotan…
Last year at this time, optimistic trend forecasters predicted that the cork would burst from the bottle by summer. With vaccines in arms, food culture would vibrate in a robust economy. American menus would be full of innovation driven by waves of international travel, and a new generation of digital-native cooks would rewrite the rules.…
In this series for T, the author Reggie Nadelson revisits New York institutions that have defined cool for decades, from time-honored restaurants to unsung dives. It is sometimes said that the oldest extant shop of its kind in New York City is Economy Candy on Rivington Street. Dating to 1937, it sells not only a…
CHICAGO — Do you like your Italian beef dry and sweet? Dipped and hot? Or perhaps wet, hot and sweet? Ordering the beloved Chicago sandwich is not unlike the drill at a coffee shop; there’s a language to know, a culture to understand, decisions to make. The city has several famous foods to its name,…
In many countries the observance of Christmas stretches into January, culminating on Epiphany, Jan. 6, when Jesus Christ was said to have been revealed to the world through the agency of the Magi, the three kings. In France, the day has been commemorated for centuries with a delicious puff pastry cake filled with frangipane in…
The start of a new year is as good a time as any to consult “52 Shabbats,” a cookbook that features a year of Friday night dinners. The Jewish New Year (Rosh Hashana) would be the most appropriate kickoff — that’s where the book begins its seasonal chapters — but it was not published until…
Add braided loopy lorighittas, compact ridged ciccioneddos and twisted andarinos to your catalog of pastas. These traditional shapes from Sardinia, handmade using mildly nutty-tasting Sardinian wheat, are now available from Bona Furtuna, an importer of Italian food products. With their twists, turns and ridges, they are tailor-made to grab sauce and maintain their al dente…