Cook Your Iceberg Lettuce, Please

Good morning. There aren’t many menu descriptions less appetizing than the “blanched lettuce” available at Tim Ho Wan, the Hong Kong dim sum chain that opened its second New York City store in Hell’s Kitchen in 2018. But it’s one of the restaurant’s great options: hot tender-crisp iceberg lettuce doused in soy sauce. I make…

El Quijote in the Hotel Chelsea Reopens

Headliner El Quijote Its signature red neon sign has not changed, nor have the references to Don Quixote, the Spanish tilter of windmills, on its painted walls, frosted glass, ceramics and more. Now, this restaurant in the Hotel Chelsea on West 23rd Street, one of the city’s oldies — it first opened in 1930 —…

The Magic of Meringues

There are few transformations in cooking as miraculous as turning an egg into a meringue. With only some sugar, air and a small amount of effort, a bowl of modest egg whites can become extravagantly glossy and puffed, ready to dress up all manner of swoopy, fancy confections — festooned on cakes, piped into pavlovas…

How to Make the Best Meringues

Humble and mysterious, an unbroken egg is “one of the most private things in the world,” the food writer M.F.K. Fisher wrote. But once cracked open, it reveals itself to be a flamboyant shape-shifter. Depending on how you handle them, egg whites can metamorphose from a dense, viscous liquid into various altered states: soft and…

Coffee Grown in the Shadow of Volcanoes

In regions where coffee is grown in mineral-rich volcanic soil, the complexity of the beans receives a boost. Volcanica Coffee, a roasting company based in Suwanee, Ga., focuses on just that, with more than 100 mostly single-origin coffees from dozens of locations around the world where volcanoes loom. It recently introduced several so-called “natural” coffees,…