Louis Catizone, an owner of the Brooklyn distiller St. Agrestis, has entered the busy nonalcoholic field with a drink that gets right to the point: the phony negroni. The garnet-red drink comes in the same conical bottle as the company’s well-made spirited negroni and has the same herb and citrus formula. It retains the bitterness you’d expect, but it’s a trifle sweet and, of course, lacks buzz. The differences can be partly overcome by adding a generous squirt of fresh blood orange juice.
St. Agrestis Phony Negroni, $59.99 for a 12-pack of 200 milliliter (6.7 ounce) bottles, stagrestis.com.