Now that the first season of a certain hit HBO show has concluded, I think this is, finally, a safe space for the return of a beloved topic: the mushroom! Driven by little other than impulse, I recently splurged on some nice mushrooms without a plan in mind. I finally decided to riff on this…
A decade ago, the chef Jimmy Tu opened Bunker, a restaurant in an industrial stretch of Ridgewood, Queens, far from public transportation. And eager diners were always willing to make the trek. Among his remarkable dishes, inspired by street food vendors in Vietnam, where his family is from, his phở gà stood out for its…
If I look at other food writers and cooks, I am definitely not the only one with a complex attitude toward cabbage. There aren’t many who would pour their hearts out in an unmitigated love serenade to the forebear of all brassicas. The only one I can think of is Nora Ephron, with her piece…
This is not a recipe for shrimp scampi. I know, everyone loves scampi. That garlicky, buttery, winy sauce, so easy to pour over plump, pink shrimp, whether eaten with pasta or mopped up with a piece of crusty bread. Then there’s the heavenly aroma. Is there anything more seductive than garlic sizzling in a pan…
My mother always said that a good sandwich should be like a scintillating conversation: packed with tasty morsels that constantly surprise you. In the same way that a skilled raconteur keeps you on your toes, the next bite of a great sandwich should always be somewhat unexpected. Is that a touch of scallion, crème fraîche and…
Headliner Anto The townhouse space that was, for decades, Lidia Bastianich’s Felidia is now this high-end expression of Korean food, from Tony Park, the Korean-Italian entrepreneur behind Paris Baguette and Essen, in New York. Butcher restaurants at Majang Meat Market in Seoul are an inspiration. Steak cuts can be prime and Wagyu, domestic and imported…
If the new dining scene at Rockefeller Center was the restaurant event of 2022, something slightly smaller but no less exciting is playing out at Lincoln Center. Last summer, I addressed a reader question about where to dine near the arts complex and found myself struggling to find pre-ballet-opera-Philharmonic options that were on the newer…
Reflecting the mood of the dining public is one thing the restaurant business is good at. Dining rooms anticipate shifts in the way people want to hang out and whom they want to hang with just as certain chefs can sense when the pendulum is about to swing from penitential to self-indulgent, or back. Commenting…
But even cookbooks that don’t focus entirely on no-waste cooking seem to be pushing its principles forward, with more recipes for using the entirety of fruits and vegetables — corn cobs, apple cores, spent lemons — and more detailed instructions for storing, reheating and reimagining leftovers. I enjoy the practicality and realism of these cookbooks,…
THE SCHNECKEN AT Edith’s, a Jewish deli in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, gleam with sugary glaze or drip with buttery icing, depending on the day. Sometimes the coiled pastries, named after the German word for snail, ooze globs of blueberry-sumac jam or shed honey-walnut crumbles. Once, ube (a purple yam from the Philippines) was added to the…