The salsas — all nine of them — arrived as a separate course at Quetzal, a new fine-dining Mexican spot in Toronto’s Little Italy neighborhood. Smearing each one on the freshly made tostadas revealed the sheer diversity of Mexico’s regions through their textures and tastes: smooth avocado, chunky roasted tomatillo, the earthy spectrum of dried…
It is staggering how much has changed for Los Angeles over the past six years. When I moved there in 2012, the city’s reputation was still overwhelmingly based on lazy clichés: that its supposed cultural vapidity carried over into its restaurants; that its Hollywood artifice bled into the lives and onto the plates of its…
WURTSBORO, N.Y. — Two hundred years ago, when the Catskill region was among the cider-making centers of the adolescent United States, more than 14,000 varieties of apples had been identified growing in the Northeast. But by the mid-20th century, that number had dwindled into the double digits. And in 2008, when Andy Crown Brennan and…
Bodies that migrate across borders undergo tremendous change. Immediately, feet alight on alien terrain, ears channel novel sounds and noses breathe in unfamiliar scents. More gradually, daily routines fall into new rhythms, cultural norms hybridize and dreams evolve. Another transformation occurs deep within the body, two recent studies from the Netherlands and United States find,…
Image Additional reporting by John Peabody. Wendy MacNaughton is a graphic journalist based in San Francisco. You can find her via website and Instagram.
Before his teenage years, Flynn McGarry contrived a fully functional kitchen in his bedroom. Nurtured by parents who were professionals in creative fields, he enlisted his school pals to “staff” his increasingly elaborate meals, made in a style heavily influenced by the elegant minimalism of restaurants like New York’s Eleven Madison Park. His Los Angeles…
Good morning. Yesterday led into a long night for newspaper peopleand all those who bird-dog the mood of the nation and the actions of its electorate. Today, pundits will try to tell us what happened and why it matters or doesn’t. Wherever you stand on the political spectrum, it may leave you more exhausted still.…
Throughout my time working in restaurants, I developed an illogical dread of some basic kitchen tasks. None of them — picking and chopping parsley, peeling and mincing garlic, browning pans of ground meat — were particularly difficult. But at the scale required in a professional kitchen, they felt Sisyphean. And even though it has been…
Headliner Benno Jonathan Benno’s latest, the crown jewel of his collection of spots in the restored Evelyn Hotel, is finally poised to open. Finally is the operative term here as the chef, who cooked at Per Se and Lincoln Ristorante, said he has been waiting about 30 years to open his own restaurant, spending the…
For most of its time on earth, the New York slice has not been seen as a product that needed tinkering. Yes, pizza in the city has been accessorized with toppings from crayfish (not bad) to Buffalo chicken (hmm) to Caesar salad (no, no, no, no, no). But the foldable, portable triangles of cheese, sauce…