What to Cook: On Brining

Good morning. Do you brine your Thanksgiving turkey? I have. I’ve also worn very, very skinny ties, and swept my hair up in a kind of poof, as if I’d taped a bird’s wing to my forehead. (Currently in order to do that I would have to tape a bird’s wing to my forehead.) Which…

The First Thanksgiving

JERSEY CITY — Two years ago this month, Mayada Anjari was only dimly aware that a holiday was approaching. After the family’s three-year journey as refugees from Syria, her sons — Hayan, Mohammed and Abdulrazaq — had just started school here; her husband, Ahmad Abdulhamid, was looking for work; and she had a baby girl,…

Who Has the Copyright Over My Cheese?

A Dutch cheese company tried to claim that it had a monopoly on the taste of a cheese spread. The Court of Justice of the European Union weighed arguments from two competing food producers, and decided on Tuesday that a taste cannot be copyrighted. Taste is “an idea,” rather than an “expression of an original…

The Rise and Fall of Turkey Brining

Dear Thanksgiving cooks of America: On behalf of food writers everywhere, I apologize. For nearly two decades now, many of us have suggested that you plunge your turkey into a bucket of flavored salt water for a day or two. The promise was an end to dryness and a bulletproof solution to the conundrum of…