What to Cook: Happy Thanksgiving!

Good morning. It’s on like Donkey Kong now, I imagine, Thanksgiving 2018: turkeys browning, potatoes gurgling, cousin Julie weeping in the guest bedroom and your brother three exits away on the highway, though he needs to stop for smokes. Time to cut the brussels sprouts. Time to baste the bird. The kids want to start…

The Cycle: Food, My Frenemy

Seven years ago I lost 60 pounds, but recently I’ve struggled with gaining it back. I’m not alone in my weight struggles. Nor am I alone in the eating disorder I have wrestled with for the last 40 years. It’s the most common eating disorder, according to a meta analysis in the Annals of Internal…

The Comforting Appeal of Herbs

ONCE, HERBS WERE weapons. Five thousand years ago, the Sumerians recorded, in cuneiform, lifesaving prescriptions of myrtle and thyme. The oldest surviving text of Chinese herbal pharmacology, extolling the benefits of ginseng, camphor and cannabis, was set down in the first century A.D. Around the same time, the Greek physician Dioscorides documented the properties of…

Eat: Real People Eat Quiche

I was writing the menu for our lunch service at Prune a few weeks ago and kept crossing out then penciling back in a classic: quiche Lorraine. I just wasn’t quite sure where we stood, as a nation, on the subject these days. In the ’80s, “quiche eater” was a casual slur to describe feminists…

The Bird Rules the Thanksgiving Magazine Cover

No matter how colorful they are, or how perfectly crimped their crusts, pies are unreliable cover stars. So are heaps of mashed potatoes, even when melted butter, the color of pure sunlight, pools in their dimples. As a general rule, November’s food magazines lead with the birds. Turkeys: Voluptuous, browned and gloriously crisp, freckled with…