Critic’s Notebook: A Delicious Link to Oaxaca in South Los Angeles
LOS ANGELES — Each week, in a kitchen in South Los Angeles, Alfonso Martinez prepares about 400 pounds of moronga — a light, onion-flecked cloud of a sausage, already crimson from a base of fresh pig’s blood, pushed to a deeper, more exuberant shade by the addition of dried red chiles. The loops of sausage…