Fish, like everything else we eat, is seasonal. I generally don’t eat tomatoes or peppers out of season. Similarly, I prefer to wait for salmon season, which usually runs from late spring through late summer. Call me a snob, but farmed salmon doesn’t hold a candle to the real thing. Consider it an annual splurge.…
So much of what we think we know about wine is probably wrong. That’s just a fact. And it has a lot to do with how we learn about wine. Much of what we think we know comes from reading something somewhere, or extrapolating generalities from a single bottle, or remembering something somebody said, or…
June is here, and in wine shops and on restaurant wine lists that can only mean one thing: The rosés have arrived. For the next three months, the world will be awash in rosés. When the summer ends, they will disappear, consigned to dusty back shelves until the calendar again grants permission to sip pink.…
Anthony Mangieri, one of New York City’s premier pizza makers, will return to his New Jersey roots, opening a branch of his Una Pizza Napoletana this summer in Atlantic Highlands, N.J. “It’s definitely happening,” Mr. Mangieri said in an interview on Thursday, confirming rumors that he was considering the move. He has run four locations…
The Los Angeles-based perfumer Ezra Woods grew up in the 1990s surrounded by food and flowers. The florist business his parents ran — the Woods, which catered to celebrities and the Four Seasons Hotel — was across the street from Mezzaluna, the Brentwood trattoria that vaulted to notoriety during the O. J. Simpson trial. The…
If love is a kind of deep knowledge, then it’s possible no one loves beets more than Irwin Goldman, a professor of horticulture at the University of Wisconsin, Madison. He once spent about 15 years developing a beet variety that was rainbow-hued and crunchy and sweet, like a carrot. “I’d been working with yellow beets…
In this series for T, the author Reggie Nadelson revisits New York institutions that have defined cool for decades, from time-honored restaurants to unsung dives. New York is the most intensely tribal city I know. I am a lifelong downtown denizen, and when I went to Barney Greengrass on the Upper West Side last week,…
Headliner Pastis There’s no restaurateur better at channeling time-worn French bistros and brasseries than Keith McNally. Now, he has recreated one of his own restaurants, Pastis, moving it around the corner from the original and recycling tiles, mirrors and other vintage details that were kept in storage during its five-year hiatus. Even the phone number…
Michelin announced its California restaurant ratings on Monday night, tied to the release of the French company’s first statewide guide, and no new restaurants received its top rating of three stars. Los Angeles was left out of that category, with only restaurants in the San Francisco Bay Area and the wine country receiving the highest…
One of the ways people pretend to be sophisticated about restaurants these days is by claiming that the New York City dining scene has lost its edge. The sheer number of restaurants in the city — about 27,000, according to the health inspectors — makes the argument absurd. How many of them are slipping? All…