NOTES FROM A YOUNG BLACK CHEFA MemoirBy Kwame Onwuachi with Joshua David Stein Image This rip-roaring tale of ambition is also a sobering account of racism in and out of the food industry. Despite coming “from a long line of restaurateurs” on his mother’s side of the family, Onwuachi, as a young black chef from…
Elka Gilmore, an innovative West Coast chef who helped redefine fusion cuisine in the 1990s, died on July 6 in San Francisco. She was 59. Her death, at a hospital, was confirmed by Jennie K. Curtis, her former companion. She said Ms. Gilmore had been in failing health for years after work injuries (one of…
“Put an egg on it” is still riding its culinary moment: A fried or poached egg draped on top of a dish is a reliable shortcut to making it richer, more filling and more mouthwatering on Instagram (that eye-catching and borderline rude runny yolk). But have you ever put a salad on it? This is…
Good tomatoes are finally here. Those of us who endure the long wait for sweet, ripe summer tomatoes are beginning to reap dividends, even if the very best ones won’t arrive until August or September. Whether you’re in the garden, observing hard green fruits at last turning color, or at the market, seeing flats of…
The only thing worse than a lackluster brunch is a practiced, performed public hatred of it. No one should wait an hour on line for overcooked eggs, but brunch can be better than fine. And in New York, joining in may be unavoidable. Whatever your feelings about the meal, it pays to have a list…
Good morning. Dorie Greenspan’s back! She’s been off skylarking around Paris, working on books, being fantastic, but now she’s returned to the pages of The Times with a perfect recipe for your weekend kitchen workshop, a tumbly-jumbly strawberry tart (above). As she wrote in a column for us, it’s a treat she’s been making every…
[What you need to know to start the day: Get New York Today in your inbox.] Yvan Lemoine is the executive chef of the Mexican restaurants Gitano Jungle Room NYC (part of the James New York — SoHo), Gitano Garden of Love, a seasonal outdoor spot nearby, and later this summer, Casa Nomad, a more…
At first glance, the fish looks like it may still be intact. The tilapia’s skin is a deep, woodsy brown and covered in cilantro leaves, sliced garlic, scallions and little arcs of red onion. But look closer and you see that the body has been broken down into parts, each piece dusted with flour and…
Dean & DeLuca, the luxury food chain, began life in 1977 as a downtown Manhattan destination for mascarpone, balsamic vinegar, radicchio and other specialties most Americans had never heard of, much less tasted. Based on the reputation built by the store’s founders, Giorgio DeLuca and Joel Dean, who curated fine food at their airy shop…
Good morning. One of the great things about reporting on food trends is that they work like pendulums, swinging from favor to disfavor and back. The forces that move them are taste and expense. Take sous-vide machines, which some call immersion circulators. They heat water to a particular temperature and keep it there, allowing a…