Where Port Reigns, Unfortified Wines Undergo a Stylistic Evolution
VILA SECA, Portugal — In the cellar of a modern, concrete winery in this small town in the Douro Valley, Luis Seabra was drawing a sample of his 2018 Xisto Cru Branco from the large old barrel in which it was aging. Even at such an early stage, this was a gorgeous white wine, made…