In the fall of 1980, Patrick Clark, the first chef at Keith McNally’s first restaurant, the Odeon, helped introduce nouvelle cuisine to New York when it was all the rage in Europe. Nearly every place Mr. McNally has built since then has been a firm rejection of all that is fashionable in food, and each…
Pastis, which served appetite-demolishing French food in the meatpacking district from 1999 until 2014, has been rebuilt near its former location. The revival raises a number of questions, including this: Will the snails come with enough bread to soak up all the garlic butter?
I used to be a shakshuka fanatic — that is, before I visited Istanbul a few months ago. There, menemen, a scrambled egg breakfast dish with tomatoes, peppers and sometimes, controversially, onions, was everywhere. At tiny restaurants, it is carefully prepared in cast-iron skillets; at hotel buffets, it appears smooth and nearly buttery in copper…
The word “ambivalent” doesn’t really exist in my vocabulary, but there is no other word to describe my feelings for August. On the one hand, August is objectively flawless: long, lazy days of abundant sunshine, spontaneous trips to the beach, endless streams of extremely cold wine and a constant parade of flawless produce. Many people…
In Spain and Portugal, sardines, mackerel, cod, tuna, mussels and other seafood packed in cans aren’t emergency pantry items. They are highly valued for dining, and restaurants serve them. Now there’s a website selling Portuguese brands that has aggregated many of the tinned products, or conservas, from various producers to make shopping easier. The seafood…
The pomegranate’s tart-sweet, jewel-like ruby seeds (arils) are a mighty challenge to extract. A new gadget from Tescoma, a company in San Martino, Italy, streamlines the usual method of holding the cut fruit in your hand over a bowl and smashing it to release the seeds. Yet even with this clever contraption, nine steps are…
The inevitability of rosé in summer goes beyond bottles of wine. This summer Maille (pronounced my), a French mustard company, has added rosé de Provence and a touch of grapefruit (pink, one might assume) to its Dijon-style mustard for a limited-edition seasonal condiment. The result is mellow and rich, with a touch of citrus that…
Heidi Riegler, the founder and a baker of Vienna Cookie Company in Baldwin, N.Y., has just added a new Austrian specialty to her inventory. It’s a classic poppy seed cake, or mohntorte, a confection that was her favorite when she was growing up in Vienna. The cake is deliciously dense with poppy seeds and comes…
It’s getting to be harvest time, and Topic48, a food consulting company that works on educational projects, is holding a two-day conference all about corn. Mira Evnine and Johanna Kolodny, the organizers, are gathering panelists, including Marion Nestle of New York University; Glenn Roberts of Anson Mills; the food historian Darra Goldstein; and Alyshia Gálvez,…
In steamy weather, I loved eating the vibrant Thai food at Pok Pok NY during its time in Brooklyn. The restaurant from the chef Andy Ricker, of Portland, Ore., is now closed, so I’m lighting my stove for the recipes in his new cookbook. It’s not exclusively Thai and includes soups and stir-fries like phat…