HOBART, N.Y. — John Lamport limped across the barn that once housed dozens of his cows, gesturing toward the vacant stalls lining the perimeter. During his career as a dairy farmer, Mr. Lamport had named every cow on his farm, memorizing the markings on their hides. He can still remember which cow stood in which…
Pimientos is what they’re called in dictionaries, in seed catalogs. But in Brooklyn, they’re known as cherry peppers, just as they are in most places where Italian-Americans gather and eat. Small and pumpkin-shaped, like miniature bell peppers, they can be found in deli cases stuffed with cubes of provolone and wisps of prosciutto, on antipasto…
Julia Moskin, Melissa Clark and Pete Wells try the new fake meats. The Impossible Burger bested the competition in a blind tasting of six national brands. The taste test replicated the experience of a home cook: Each burger was seared in canola oil and served in a potato bun. People complaining about the health implications…
This annual list is an exercise in selective memory: The trick is to remember every impressive snack, sandwich, pastry, main course and cocktail I ate over the past year without ever thinking about how much food it all adds up to. It helps to eliminate, right off the bat, anything I consumed in a restaurant…
Headliner P.F. Pasta al Forno Emanuele Bugiani, an owner of the Fiaschetteria Pistoia restaurants in the East and West Village, has opened a tiny new spot focusing on baked pasta. He’s dipped into history for inspiration, basing the restaurant on Pasta al Forno, in Florence, Italy. That restaurant, open from 1964 to 2000, was owned…
It’s true, I couldn’t figure out how to allocate stars to the labyrinth of Spanish restaurants, bars, cafes, kiosks and shops that the chef José Andrés presides over in the Hudson Yards complex. But putting it in the No. 1 slot for the year isn’t a close call. Not that Mercado Little Spain is without…
For Hanukkah this year, Zak Stern — who has been called the “kosher king” of Miami — is frying up doughnuts at Zak the Baker, his bakery and cafe. But he’s also making churros, the sweet fritter of choice in much of Latin America, Spain and Portugal. “Miami is filled with Latin Jews,” he said. “It’s…
OF MORSELS AND MARVELSBy Maryse Condé Some years ago, the Guadeloupean novelist Maryse Condé approached her French publisher about writing a cookbook. In the preface to her latest work, “Of Morsels and Marvels,” she conveys her surprise at his negative response. Implicit in his refusal was the notion that cooking, as a subject, couldn’t be…
This year, for the first time, D’Artagnan is selling turkeys, raised free range in Pennsylvania the same way as its Green Circle chickens, on scrap vegetables from food markets. The birds are grown to market weight more slowly than usual and air-chilled. I tried one for Thanksgiving without brining or heavy seasonings, roasted at 375…
Pop the cork alongside a dessert like no other, from the kitchens of Lady M, the bakery founded in New York in 2001. It has infused its famous nine-inch multilayered Mille Crêpes cake with Champagne for the holidays. A whiff of strawberry enhances the pastry cream between the delicate layers and a shimmering Champagne gelée…