Last week, a large order from a Twitter follower in Maryland gave the Harlem restaurant FieldTrip a crucial shot of revenue and, perhaps, a glimpse of a way to stay in business during the coronavirus pandemic. FieldTrip’s chef and owner, JJ Johnson, had taken to Twitter on Wednesday to say he had just packed and…
For nearly three years, the chef T.J. Steele refused to offer delivery at Claro, his Michelin star restaurant in the Gowanus neighborhood of Brooklyn. He ignored the constant entreaties from online delivery companies like Grubhub and DoorDash, which were sometimes sent to his personal email address. Creating a delivery operation would have required a time-consuming overhaul…
Of all the delights of the Seder table — the tender brisket, the golden chicken soup flecked with dill, the wine-drenched charoset rich with apples — commercial, kosher-for-Passover matzo falls pretty low on the list. Made from only flour and water, the result is hard and bland — perfect as a base for matzo brei…
Today’s pantry dish is a hearty one, built on a solid foundation of lentils and rice topped with golden fried onions. Adapted from a Middle Eastern mujadara, this streamlined version is brothier than the original, somewhere between a soup and a stew. Simmered together in one pot, it’s faster and more flexible, using any kind…
Good morning. Here we go again with the screens and the earphones, another day on the uncomfortable chair, the dog at my feet. The commute wasn’t bad, though, and there was a beautiful, orange-yolked egg for breakfast, nestled in a piece of toast — what some call a Guy Kibbee, after the actor, who made…
Like so many others, my wife and I have been self-isolating in our apartment, doing our best to stay close to our loved ones from afar, and cooking the foods that we find most comforting: split-pea soup, various bean dishes, spaghetti and meatballs, just for starters. The other night, with the soup, I opened one…
NEW ORLEANS — Tommy Tommaseo is not nostalgic for Hurricane Katrina. Rocky and Carlo’s, his family’s Creole-Italian restaurant in St. Bernard Parish, just outside New Orleans, took on four feet of water when that disaster hit in 2005. There were fish swimming in the first floor of Mr. Tommaseo’s house. His father, Rocky, then 91,…
A blank canvas, ready to take on different flavor profiles, textures and forms, rice is the foundation of many cuisines worldwide. It exists in more than 7,000 varieties — and it feels like there are about as many ways to cook it. If you have a limited pantry and some time, the possibilities to repurpose…
BRISTOL, R.I. — Lou Frattarelli eased his flatbed truck into the loading zone at Andrade’s Catch, a small seafood shop in this town on Narragansett Bay. He had just tied his 24-foot clam skiff to the marina beside the firehouse and offloaded his catch. He had four sacks of quahogs to sell, raked on the…
Hello again, Five Weeknight Dishes readers. I hope you’re not feeling pressured to cook dinner tonight. Most of us are already spending more time than usual thinking about food, and how to get and keep it. Between the elder and younger generations of my family, I’m currently food shopping for eight people, in four different…