Verdicchio di Matelica, to Discover or Revisit

As some of you might have noticed, I’ve been on an Italian white wine kick. I’ve been particularly interested in wines made from the verdicchio grape. “Verdicchio is arguably Italy’s greatest native white grape variety,” Ian D’Agata wrote in his authoritative book “Native Wine Grapes of Italy.” “That statement may come as a surprise to…

How Do You Define Rosé?

Certain categories of wine must be approached on tiptoe, as opinions surrounding them will be tenaciously defended, even if their champions are ill-informed. Arguments will ensue. Riesling is like that, for sure, and natural wine, without a doubt. But rosé? Rosé is a popular, beloved sort of wine, I imagined, that all would embrace. It’s…

Melissa Clark’s Fourth of July

Good morning. Happy Canada Day, to those celebrating. In the United States, we’re barreling into the Fourth of July, which will be a strange one this year, no doubt. We’re sick of fireworks, most of us; many can’t gather closely because of the coronavirus; and we’re all in the midst of a difficult, painful reckoning…